I made a thing!! I’m not sure what it is but I made it.
Thank you Patrick Shine !! Your pictures on your blog have been absolutely invaluable. Your blog is without a doubt my favorite.
Month: July 2022
There’s much debate about the correct location for the static port. I have read that Torrance has disconnected it at the back of the dash. So they are using cabin pressure. But I read at some altitudes cabin pressure can be wrong. Factory says to put them in front of the cabin air intakes. But I read that people say that is also inaccurate. The only place that I have any feedback on that apparently returns an accurate pressure is from Evan and he says that is halfway back the tail. And my Cirrus also had the ports in that location. So out comes the drill and in goes the port. Of course I am missing the stock ports because they never came in my package from sling. So I bought my own ports from Aircraft Spruce and they actually bolt in from the inside, which I like that installation method better anyway. Drilling a hole into my quick build fuselage was very stressful. I did apply a very little RTV to the back side of the port before I screwed it in. I also used locktite on the bolt. It came out great.
Installed the sling TSI inside door pull. Not really much to say about this. The manual called for a 20mm long bolt/screw but I found that to be to long. So I substituted a 15mm and that came out perfectly.
My rear seats are not going all the way back against the rear seat stops. They instead hit the outer walls of the plane. So I started to think about ways to fix that. Because I have the rear split seats, I don’t really like the way they join in the middle it feels weak, like a rambunctious kid could probably bend it and disconnect the two seats. So I put one square tube aluminum bar across the back of the seats. Now they rest against it. I created a quick disconnect system that allows it to slide in and out quickly and securely. On the passenger side the tube slides over a square nub and on the pilot side it slips down into a channel.
Also is a picture of my carbon fiber center glove compartment.
Most importantly everybody, it’s T- 14 days to Oshkosh EAA Airventure. See you all there !!!
I wasn’t happy with the looks of the factory latch. It reminds me of the cab that covered the back of my dad’s truck. Also, I was concerned that it stuck too far out into the wind and would cause drag. So I found these which are very solid metal and have a much smaller footprint. I did have to make the hole in the door a little larger and I had to file down the place where the lever attaches to the latch. It definitely doesn’t have as much of a handle to put your hand on but there is plenty of surface area to get a good enough grip to open the door. You can’t tell from the picture but it does have a lock built into it. All in all it was a pretty simple conversion. If you decide to do the same you can find these latches here, https://www.etrailer.com/CCNTRL/Pop-and-Lock/PAL9585.html
Absolutely follow Slings guidance on this topic… Here’s some information for the curious mind… All the below rod ends fit into the relevant tubes and the eyes fit the relevant bolts 3/8″
A. Is a Aurora replacement rod end that 1/4 handles 2100lbs and the 5/16 handles 2800lbs GMM-4M-470 https://www.pilotshop.com/catalog/appages/aurorabearings.php
B. Is suppose to handle 1700lbs and is what comes with the sling kit as of before mid 2022. This is the rod end being recalled.
C. Is a uxcell replacement rod end.
